1190 Victoria Drive, Vancouver BC V5L 4G5
If you love pizza and you live in Vancouver, you’re bound to have heard of Via Tevere. And if you haven’t, well please allow me to broaden your pizza horizon.
Simply put, this place is arguably the best pizzeria in town. In fact, it’s the talk of the town. Allow me to provide an anecdotal example: near the end of our meal at Via Tevere, we ran into an acquaintance and he asked if it was our first time eating here (definitely not) and if we enjoyed the pizza (definitely yes). He explained if you didn’t know, it’s the best pizza around.
There you have it, not from me but from this complete and unnamed stranger who may not have any credibility on pizza. I guess word gets around.
Let’s cut the talk and get to the good stuff: the pizza. We ordered the classic Napoletana margherita and it came 2 minutes later. This is because most pizzas only take 90 seconds to bake in a giant pizza oven (more on this below). Now this pizza has always been my favourite in the city (and second in North America as the first goes to Lombardi’s in Manhattan) and remains so after this visit. It was everything I remembered: fresh, tomato-forward sauce without any embellishment; crisp and chewy crust; rich fior di latte cheese that was beyond stringy; and lastly, some basil to top it all off. The ingredients speak for themselves and could make any Italian Nonna kiss her fingers in approval.
Let’s talk about the oven: it is a beautiful mosaic of baby blue tile sitting right behind the horseshoe counter that doubles up as a bar and pizza prep station. This wood-burning specimen is not only the centrepiece of the dining room – it’s the biggest thing in the restaurant. As it should be because it’s pumping out pies like no other.
Next up were the polpette della Nonna (meatballs) and polenta fritta (fried polenta). I took my first bite of these glorious spheres and froze, I’m a tad dramatic. They were the best meatballs I’d ever had – tender to the point of melting in your mouth, a perfect balance of pork and beef, subtly seasoned so the meat remains the highlight. They sat in more of that fresh tomato sauce, which gave it the perfect bit of acidity to the cut the fatty, juicy goodness.
The fried polenta also came with the side of marinara (they love their tomato sauce here) and was fried to a golden crisp – crunchy on the outside, creamy corny mash on the inside. They were a close favourite for me – imagine giant breaded cornmeal french fries!
With dessert, I put my money where my mouth was and doubled-down. I wanted doughnuts and cake. We ordered the Italian classic: tiramisu, as well as the cinnamon-sugared doughnuts (they call them fritters) topped with hazelnut chocolate. The latter will definitely satisfy any sweet tooth or chocolate craving. But the tiramisu is worth talking about: super light Marscarpone cream layered between soaked yet still fluffy lady fingers. No morsel was left behind.
Come to Via Tevere, brave the 30 minute to hour plus wait times, get escorted inside, sit down, have a glass of wine, watch as they make your pizza, then eat it, definitely order dessert and enjoy. Please, I insist – you won’t regret it.
- Margherita Pizza $14
- Polpette della Nonna $3.50/each
- Polenta Fritta $10
- Graffe con Nutella $3.50/each
- Tiramisu $10
Beats: Talk That Talk – Rihanna feat. Jay Z